Bottom lash extensions can be a beautiful add on when done correctly, but they require a different approach than top lashes. Below are the most important questions clients and artists should understand before offering or booking bottom lash services.
What is the difference between top and bottom lashes?
Upper and lower natural lashes differ significantly in density, length, and structure. Upper lashes are typically denser, longer, and grow in multiple layers. Bottom lashes are usually shorter, finer, more spaced out, and often grow in only 1 to 2 layers. Because of these differences, we approach lashing the bottom lashes slightly differently than we do the top.
How long do bottom lash extensions last?
And do we fill them like traditional lashes?
It is important to note that we consider Bottom Lash Extensions a fun, temporary enhancement.
Bottom lash extensions can last anywhere from 3 to 14+ days, depending on the style and lash coverage of the set. Much like traditional lash extensions, their longevity depends on factors like lash coverage, aftercare practices, and the client’s lifestyle. Activities such as rubbing the eyes, exposure to moisture, or makeup use can drastically shorten their retention rate. As a result, bottom lashes are often considered a temporary enhancement, meaning you commonly don’t fill them as there simply aren’t many lashes remaining at traditional lash fills. With that said, if lashes remain between fills, you can absolutely fill the remaining lashes in, without removing the old lash extensions but it is not overly common to ‘fill‘ bottom lashes the traditional way. For this reason, it is important we have open, honest conversation with our clients about the likelihood of the bottom lashes lasting for only a short amount of time.
If a client wants to wear bottom lashes regularly, we suggest seeing them every week.
Should top or bottom lashes be done first?
We highly recommend applying top lashes first before moving on to bottom lash extensions. Here’s why:
Isolation and Comfort: When applying top lashes, you’ll need to cover the bottom lashes with eye pads or tape – If you do the bottom lashes first, you risk ruining your hard work when moving on to the top lashes. Additionally, heat can alter the curl of lash extensions. If the bottom lashes are covered with eye patches for an extended period, the trapped heat from the skin could change the structure or curl of the bottom lash extensions, distorting the final look.
Symmetry and Style: Completing the top lashes first gives you a clearer idea of how to style the bottom lashes in terms of length, curl, and fullness. This ensures both sets complement each other. Think of bottom lashes as an accessory to the top lashes. Kinda like choosing an outfit – Would you pick your jewelry before you pick your outfit? Probably not.
Is everyone a good candidate for bottom lash extensions?
Just like upper lash extensions, not everyone is a good candidate for bottom lash extensions. Clients with very sparse natural lower lashes, large lash gaps, extremely sensitive eyes, allergies, excessively runny eyes or a tendency to rub their eyes often may experience discomfort or poor retention. As with upper lashes, it's important to assess the client's natural lashes, eye shape, and lifestyle during the consultation to determine if this service is a good fit.
With that said, bottom lash extensions only require a small amount of coverage so even if a client has a sparse or gapped bottom lash line, they may still be a candidate for this service.
Is 100% coverage necessary for bottom lashes?
100% coverage is not always necessary when applying bottom lash extensions.
In most cases, we focus on covering only the top layer of the bottom lashes, and even then, full coverage of that layer isn’t always required. The extent of coverage depends largely on the desired lash style and the client’s natural lash characteristics.
Some clients may have a thick, even top layer of bottom lashes, making coverage straightforward. Others may have sparse, uneven, or staggered lash growth, which may require incorporating lashes from lower layers to achieve the intended look.
Ultimately, you have the flexibility to cover as few or as many natural lashes as needed. More coverage will typically result in a more dramatic effect - unless you're using very fine diameters or lightweight extensions, which can soften the overall appearance, even if higher coverage is achieved.
How much time should I book for bottom lash extensions?
The time required to apply bottom lash extensions can range from just 10-15 minutes to 30–45 minutes, depending on several factors, including:
- The Style: Some styles require fuller coverage, while others may need as few as 10 lashes per eye. Naturally, more coverage means more time.
- Client's Natural Lash Density: The density, complexity, and width of the client’s lower lash line can all impact the time needed for the service.
- The Artist’s Skill Level: It may take a few tries to perfect your technique, so expect to be slower in the beginning as you build your confidence and speed.
How much to charge?
The price of bottom lash extensions varies based on location, the artist’s skill and experience, salon reputation, and material costs.
Pricing should reflect market rates, artist preferences and level of expertise. Generally speaking (and taking into consideration the low timing of bottom lash services and their low retention rate), it is usually safe to charge about 30% of your lowest standard set pricing.
I.e. If you charge $100 for a classic lash set, consider charging $30 extra if the client is to add bottom lashes to their service.
