Lash irritation is every lash artist’s nightmare, but it doesn't have to feel confusing. The real question is, if a client is experiencing discomfort, do you know how to identify what type of reaction it is? Understanding the difference is the key to knowing how to help them. Below are the three most common causes of lash irritation and how to recognize them.
1. Adhesive Chemical burn
This is the most common irritation artists see and the one we hear about the most. Chemical burn usually shows up as redness on the whites of the eyes. It can be super mild or really noticeable, but the reason behind it is always the same. Lash adhesive is attracted to moisture, and since we work so close to the eye, the eyelid has to stay fully closed. If it lifts even the tiniest bit, the fumes get pulled straight toward the moisture in the eye.
Think of it like cutting an onion. When you slice into one, the fumes go right to the moisture in your eyes and start to sting. Adhesive fumes work the exact same way. If your client’s eyes are open even a crack, the fumes are going to find that moisture, and over the length of the appointment, that irritation builds. In some cases, this can turn into what is considered a chemical burn, and it can definitely feel uncomfortable for the client.
Chemical Burn symptoms include:
- Pain
- Redness
- A scratchy feeling, like something is in the eye
- Slight blurriness
The good news is that this usually settles on its own within 2 to 4 days. If it lingers or starts to feel worse instead of better, it is always safest to have your client check in with a medical professional. And just to reassure you, this doesn't mean your client has an allergy or glue sensitivity. Most of the time, it simply means their eye was open the tiniest bit during the appointment.
How can chemical burns be prevented?
Some ways lash artists can prevent chemical burns include:
- Using sensitive tape to help prevent eyelash glue fumes from reaching open eyes
- Ensuring correct placement of eye pads
- Advising clients to avoid caffeine at least an hour before service
- Using a lash mirror to check that the eyes are fully closed
- Holding down the eyelid down with a finger
- Wrapping a sanitized coin in tape and tape it to the eyelid (the ‘dime trick’)
2. Scraped Sclera
This one is often confused with chemical burn, but it's completely different. A scraped sclera happens when the under eye pad shifts or rubs against the eye. This can happen if the client is talking a lot, if their eyes water and the eye pad slips inward, or if the eye pad was placed a little too close to begin with. The irritation comes from physical contact rather than fumes.
How can a scraped sclera be prevented?
Lash artists have the responsibility of communicating with their clients to ensure they are comfortable. Eye pads must be carefully placed and should sit just below the waterline to prevent discomfort. It is important to be mindful of where the pad is sitting, as it can sometimes slip and reach the eye, leading to a scraped sclera. If you are experiencing any pain while getting your extensions, it is important to let your lash artist know so they can adjust the pad into its proper place.
3. Allergy or Sensitivity to the Glue
A reaction to glue or another lash product is a bit more complex. An allergy or sensitivity can be triggered by anything such as the adhesive, carbon black, or even lash fibers. There is no guaranteed way to know what specific ingredient caused it. Allergies can also come and go. Seasonal allergies, eczema, and changes in the skin barrier can make someone react even if they never have before.
The tricky part is timing. Allergies and sensitivities rarely show up right away. Your client may leave feeling amazing, then a few hours later start experiencing discomfort. They might feel heat on the eyelids, a little sensitivity when blinking, itchiness, or see a bit of crusting around the lash line. Those delayed symptoms are a strong sign of a sensitivity or allergy.
There is one more important thing to consider. Sometimes what looks like a reaction is actually a technique issue. Before assuming an allergy, check your work. Were any extensions or natural lashes stuck together? Was there too much glue used? Were any extensions placed too close to or directly on the skin? These things can mimic the feeling of a reaction, so it is always worth double checking your placement and glue control.
Sensitivities can range from extremely mild to very uncomfortable, but they usually show up within 24 to 48 hours after the appointment.
Now that you know the differences, it becomes much easier to understand what your client is actually experiencing. Redness right away points to chemical burn. A very specific irritated spot on the eye suggests a scraped sclera. And symptoms that show up hours later lean toward a sensitivity or allergy or a potential technique issue.
Once you know what caused the irritation, you can guide your client with confidence, adjust your technique if needed, and make sure they feel fully supported and cared for 🤍
